Am ordering a very expensive 2002 Pinot Noir...

...because I can, and it's my last night in Paris so what the heck :)

I believe that I had the quintessential American in Paris experience tonight...

...when a Parisian woman called me "stoo-peed" in her very Frenchy
French accent. I was coming out of my building, and she grabbed the
door before it closed, to go in. I told her I needed to see her key -
she looked at me incredulously. I apolgized, but said if she didn't
have a key, I wasn't able to let her in. She dug around her purse and
finally presented one, exasperated. I thanked her and turned to
leave, and before the door closed I heard her say "stoo-peed".

Wee-eeelll....I wasn't going to let that be the end of it. I of
course considered saying something rude, but instead I swung the door
open and shouted after her "hey! Do you want there to be a security
issue in the building or what!". Yes, I'm sure that put her in her
place. All I can say is - I don't want to be the temporary lodger who
lets in the serial killer. I'm thinking they charge extra if that
happens.

As for dinner - I'm back here at Willi's, and a little disappointed.
When I arrived - early, at 7:15 - the bar was almost full of people
drinking wine. Fortunately there was one stool available, but at the
"body" of the bar, not at the end where I like to be. I know, it's a
little obsessive of me. But I don't like being all exposed out in the
middle. I know there are a few of you out there who understand. But
I'm guessing it won't affect the food and the wine :)

Not sure if I'll post again after this...Will enjoy the lights of the
city as I walk home, the sounds, the people...And then it's up at 4:30
tomorrow morning to get ready for my 5am pickup. First flight leaves
at 8am, and I arrive in Seattle at 11:50am - kind of wild, due to the
big time change.

Can't wait to be home! And then Boston! Such a mix of sadness, but
also excitement...woohoo!

Love you all so much - it's meant a lot that so many of you have
followed along with me on my expedition. In some ways, it seems that
6 weeks has gone by very quickly!!

xoxo L

Sent from my iPhone

Huh. Go figure.

My iPhone weather says it's supposed to be 53 degrees and sunny here
in Paris. But instead, it's freezing, windy, hailing, and raining.
Maybe the cloud is just over my apartment? Boy, it's a good thing I
went to a salon this morning to get my hair washed and blown out
straight. One minute outside and I'm going to be Medusa. Ah well :)

Sent from my iPhone

Sometimes bad luck turns out to be good!

I walked about 20 minutes to a Mexican restaurant I had read about
that was supposed to be the best in Paris. When I arrived at 9:30 it
was packed and standing room only, and without a reservation I was
told it would be hopeless to get a seat (even just solo little ol'
me). Deflated, and not wanting Frenchy food, I decided to start
walking to a Cuban place I had passed a few days before - about a mile
and a third, or another 15 - 20 minute stroll. And thus the bad luck
became good.

It was so dark in there I almost set my menu on fire trying to read it
over the candle, but Cuban music was playing in the background and the
vibe was great. And my meal was fantastic - a juicy leg-on chicken
breast falling off the bone with a chorizo stuffing, red pepper
polenta/corn mixture, and fried plantains. Those are all my
approximations of ingredients as the only part I recognized on the
menu was "pollo" (chicken) and "maiz" (corn). It was awesome - a
perfect blend of sweet and savory flavors that always hit my palate
just right.

One more day here in Paris. No big plans for tomorrow, except to go
to a solon and get my hair washed and then blown out straight. A
total girlie treat thing to do, but my hair deserves it. It hasn't
exactly been treated nicely by me on this trip, so it will be a fun
luxury. Other than that - some packing, a final croissant, a final
walk around the city, and then dinner again at Willi's where they're
holding a spot for me at the bar. It feels like Jak's :). (a West
Seattle haunt of mine)

Paris at night truly is magical...I think I'll walk home slowly....

Au revoir,
L

Some beautiful architecture on the walk to Place De Voges today...great Fall day...

The corridor of lighted crystals at the holocaust memorial, representing the 200,000 French who perished...

It figures.

I finally meet a man and he's married. I was sitting in my
neighborhood cafe, finishing my wine from lunch, and "Frank" sat next
to me to have an espresso. We started chatting - he was in town from
England (though is originally from Paris) because his Mom had just
passed away. He was sad, and regretful about not being there, and
just down in general. We talked about his wife and 3 year old little
girl, my trip, my move, his work, etc.

He accompanied me on my sight-seeing for the next hour and a half or
so. Which I'm sure was fairly boring for him, but he seemed sad and
lonely and I think it helped him take his mind off things for a bit.
We went first to La Conciergerie, which was where people were
imprisoned and guillotined back in pre-revolution French days (and
post as well). This included King Louis XVI and shortly after, his
wife Marie-Antoinette. Strangely enough, today is the anniversary of
her beheading (which I actually wouldn't have noticed if Frank hadn't
pointed it out, as I seem to have no concept of the date right now).

Then we headed to the Memorial de la Deportation - a site honoring the
French who were rounded up by the Nazis and hauled off to
concentration camps. You descend down a staircase into a white walled
chamber containing several rooms, including one long area that has
200,000 small lighted crystals on the wall to commemorate the French
citizens who died. Above the door as you leave, it reads in French
"Forgive, but never forget".

Then we walked towards the Place Des Voges, a large lovely park, but
first stopped for a short beer at a Scottish pub. More talk about
life, family, etc. Standing out in the brisk air, we said goodbyes.
Frank had to go take care of some things. He wanted my phone number
and hoped we could go out for dinner or wine later, as I was so
comfortable and easy to talk to, and he said he thought that would
feel better than trying to get through a family dinner without his
Mom. I politely declined - while I think he was sincere, it just
didn't seem appropriate, regardless of the circumstances. During the
day sightseeing, etc seems like one thing, but dinner or drinks at
night another. I feel a little bad, as he apologized a couple of
times for asking and I think he just wanted a friendly ear, but you
never can tell.

Ok, I'm freezing my butt off in the wind on this park bench writing,
so I'm going to sign off for now!

Love,
L