Saturday, September 19, 2009

When I die, bury me with truffles

Ciao!

Woke up at 3:41am this morning - one of those instances where I got up
to pee, knew the alarm was going to go off at 5am, and then laid there
for an hour, unable to fall back asleep, and so finally gave up and
got up. (sigh)

But, that means I got to the Sorrento train station with plenty of
time. Ride to Napoli was fairly uneventful EXCEPT - for the man who
sat right next to me, tried to talk to me in Italian even after I told
him I couldn't understand, then wanted to take a photo of me with his
camera once we arrived in Napoli, and then tried to help me with my
bag. I firmly told him 'no, NO'. I mean, hellllloo! Single woman
travelling, knows about the 'dangers' of the Napoli train station, and
you're gonna try and put your hands on my bag? I DON'T THINK SO! But
it's okay - I could have taken him :). Truly, I think he was harmless,
but you can never tell.

The train ride from Napoli to Orvieto - about 3 and a 1/2 hours, went
by quickly. I read a little, watched the countryside go by...Until
Roma, the only other person in my compartment were a few Italian folks
who didn't speak English. But we still offered each other to share
our snacks :). After Roma, three giggly Japanese girls got on, and
then the next thing you know, I was in Orvieto!

Renting the car was funny...truly one of those moments where you have
to follow the rule that - in Italy, experiences are often chaotic.
But if you embrace the chaos, aren't in a hurry, and keep your good
humor - then everything can still be enjoyable.

My hotel room in Orvieto rocks - a junior suite on the top floor, huge
bed, large bathroom with a full bathtub. It's the only room they had
left when I booked (poor me :)). There's a view of the lovely Duomo
(I'll post). After a nap, I took a bath (Miles Davis on the iPhone,
Campari and soda, my book) and then got dressed for dinner...

For dinner - I was turned away at the first recommended restaurant -
they were booked. But the second one was a winner! OMG. Homemade
fettucine with a sauce of truffles and mushrooms. If I had to choose
a last meal, that would be it. I followed it wih roasted guinea fowl,
also with truffles and a little balsamic. So simple - and perfect.
The best meal I've had in Italy, because it so hits my flavor profiles
- earthy, rich, warm. Ahhhhhh....roll me out of here and in to bed.
I'm a happy girl.

Tomorrow I drive to Greve in Chianti, where I stay in a lovely
apartment for a week. Looking forward to a full 7 nights in the same
place - a temporary home. From there, I'll explore the hill towns of
Toscano, Florence, etc...I'll make an itinerary (of course), but
leaving lots of room for improvisation. Also - I'm very excited to
meet Dario the butcher, in Panzano. You foodies out there - you've
probably heard on him. He's got connections to Salumi, Mario Batali,
and his Dad. It's very close to Greve. Some people choose proximity
to sights, I choose a butcher. Each to his own :)

Okay - night for now!
xoxo

Sent from my iPhone

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