I have decided to forgive Parma...

...for eating horse. And donkey. All I can say is - the Rosetta
Stone program paid for itself today :).

That's right - several restaurants (good ones) feature the above.
Blech. But I have managed to have some deliecious food today. More
about that in a minute.

The hotel I'm in now (2 nights) is in the historical center, and so
within walking distance of everything. After checking in late
morning, I mapped out the sites I wanted to hit, then went to lunch
(hey - I have my priorities). Trattoria del Tribunale - excellent
meal. Tortelli d'erbetta - a local specialty; fresh pasta filled with
ricotta and swiss chard withal little butter and parmigiana. So
simple and perfect! Then I had melanzana parmigiana - eggplant
parmigiana. Charred edges, tomato sauce, fresh eggplant, gooey cheese
- again, perfect. And then to wash it all down, a local wine -
Lambrusco, which is a very slightly sweet, fizzy red. YUM!! Who
knew?? But here's where I need help. I know a bottle of wine is
750ml. So is a 1/2 liter a bottle of wine? Or is it 500ml and so 2/3
of a bottle? And what about a quartino (I think quart) - how much is
that? The restuarants tend to speak so fast that I often go with
whatever they recommend, but sometimes it's more than I really want.
Damn metrics.

Saw lots of churches and palazzos in the afternoon, but I was most
impressed by the Citadella. In the past, it was a huge, walled
fortress surrounded by a moat, where the townspeople would gather in
times of danger. Now, the moat is all grass, and it's been turned
into a lovely park area - but the fortress itself still stands.
Pretty impressive.

After buying a new iPhone charger and doing laundry, I headed out to
dinner at about 9. Went to a restaurant in the main piazza that's
supposed to have some of the best pizza in the city. Had mine with
Parma ham, mozzarella, porcini, carciofi (artichoke), and cipolla
(onion). It was awesome. Sat outside under their tent on the square,
with music from Verdi jauntily playing next door from an exhibit about
that hot show that's in town. Truly lovely! One thing though - I
think the waiter a dinner thought I was French. After me fumbling
through my order in Italian, he said "merci". Perhaps I now speak
Italian with a French accent? Huh. Interesting.

Time for bed...cappuccino on the square in the morning, and then a few
museums and art exhibits. Then Sunday it's on to Mantova where I will
meet up with my very good friend Jen -YAY!!!

Love,
L