I slept in late today - getting to be a bit of a habit for me really.
But who could blame me - it was toasty under the down comforter and
about 40 degrees in the apartment (I know, I know, I said I wouldn't
complain!). I think there might be heat available, but I would have to
pay extra for it so I'm toughing it out. I need to get used to the
cold, right?
I went to lunch at Willi's Wine Bar in the Palais Royal district (1st
Arrondissement I believe). Paris is divided into districts, or
"arrondissements", starting with the 1st which is in the center of
Paris and then spirals out in increasing numbers from there. My
apartment is in the Marais, or 4th, District.
The name Willi's does not belie the amazingly delicious French food
that emanates from here. I read about it in my Paris food book
(another thanks Tina!) and it was wonderful. I've never had someone
pour me a glass of wine and then ask - would you like more? A full
glass? They're normal smallish wine glasses (unlike the ones I have
at home - ha!), and so my answer was of course "sure!" :). I then had
3 perfectly cooked scallops with butter and leeks and presented in a
scallop shell, then guinea hen roasted with cipollini, small potatoes,
carrots, chantrelles, herbs and a yummy sauce - fantastic, then a thin
slice of rich chocolate moussey cake with a creme anglaise (English
cream) sauce - OMG. Match those with first a glass of hermitage (a
blend of white), then a glass of cotes du rhone (red), then a glass of
portuguese sherry - and you have a meal that makes you want to hang
out there until it's time for dinner! As a matter of fact, I may look
at making a reservation here for Saturday - my last night. I couldn't
get in at Joel Robuchon's restaurant 'A'telier', and maybe that's a
good thing, maybe the last night shouldn't be fancy pants but instead
just really good bistro French food like here...We'll see.
Then it was off to the Musee D'Orsay for a little "cul-chah" as we
would say in New England. Wonder how long it will take me to get my
accent back? :). But as I was walking there through lovely gardens
near the Seine, I ran smack into the Musee L'Orangerie - a gallery
that has 10 - 12 foot long curved Monet masterpeices from his
"lilypad" collection (at least that's what I call it). They were
lovely and serene. Downstairs, this museum also had an impressive
impressionist and post-impressionist collection - Renoir, Cezanne,
Guillaume, Picasso, Matisse...I also enjoyed how small and manageable
it was. Then, I walked a few blocks over to the Musee D'Orsay. But
apparently I was already museumed out. I found myself zipping around
to just the artists I wanted to see - like Degas (my favorite little
ballerina girl) and Rodin. I had a hard time with the crowds, even
though there are much fewer than during the peak season. And so I was
done. I got a joint museum pass for the two for only 13 euro, and so
still feel as though it was a good deal and certainly worth the time.
After the walk back to the apartment in the blustery wind, leaves
crunching under my feet, I was able to lay down and read for a little
bit, and then it was time for dinner. Shocking how fast the day goes
when you lounge in bed until 11am :). I have returned to Cafe Moderne,
where Diane and I had a lovely lunch her first day and I was hungry
(figuratively) for more. I have a glass of champagne, and have
ordered a vegetable tartlette with baby snails, and the fabulous lamb
I had the first time here. It was that good.
Am going to post a few photos from today, but am signing off early. I
hope everyone is happy and healthy - love to all!
L
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